Historical facts of Ondra Fort Poyga Gulmit Hunza

ondra poygah pic
Research and writing: Hussain Ali Harri

Studying history is a mental exercise and takes a lot of effort. To understand historical facts, one has to look at history from different angles and in-depth study is also necessary.

To date, no one has tried to write on the topic we have chosen, even if it is written, it is still unavailable. We hope you will appreciate our first attempt.

Important Note: Our readers who would like to read this post in Urdu, please click on this link https://theimsmedia.com.pk/اوندرہ-قلعہ-پوئی…مت-کےتاریخی-حقائ/

We also wanted to share some of the historical books that were available with you through our study, interest, and struggle, agreeing with these facts and sharing those materials with you. Enjoy doing this and point out these shortcomings as well as reading so that we can expand our study as well as benefit from your good advice.

Dear Readers, If we study the events of Hunza during the reign of Mir Shah Ghazanfar Khan (1824 to 1864) (H1), we find that his era is full of interesting events and changes. I found a lot of expansion in the state of Hunza which is not possible to mention in this short post but it would be appropriate to mention something from the mirror of history so that we can assess the historical status of Gulmit Ondra Poiga. I would like you to subscribe to our website and also follow our social media services so that you can be notified all the time.

  1. The Chinese helped in the Yarkand uprising of 1847. Colonel FC Schaumberg mentions this in his book.    (H 7.8)

  2. The victory of Fateh Ali Shah with the help of Sarikul and Hunza of Taghram   (H13-14)

  3. Wars and looting for the rule of Hunza and Nagar states.

  4. The fall of the Budding landslide and the prayer of Shahdad’s teacher.

We will mention in detail the third important point “Wars and looting for the rule of the states of Hunza and Nagar” and the fourth point “The fall of the Budding landslide and the prayer of the teacher Shahdad of Sarikul because of its connection with this historical place.

Wars and looting for the rule of Hunza and Nagar states.

Historical studies show that the conquest of the state of Hunza was of geographical importance, so not only the state of Nagar but also the rulers of Gilgit as well as the British government of the subcontinent needed this area to pass through this area. To be able to advance towards China.

The Hunza Valley is historically and geographically important because the ancient Silk Road used to pass through this valley called Karakoram Highway today. China has ruled this region since the earliest times. It also remained an independent state. At the international level, as always, the region is important.

Due to its importance even during British rule, the first Sikh Nathu Shah of Gilgit attacked Hunza in 1848 with the help of the forces of Gilgit and Nagar but was defeated. Puppet Raja Karim Khan was killed by both Hunza people. ” (H2)

Not only that but in 1865 he made a second attempt by allying with Nagar but failed. (H2)

The crown is the work of his government on Britain and the subcontinent. He established his rule over these areas for many centuries.

The effects of these conditions and events remained for a long time in the people of Nagar and Hunza and for many years the two neighbors were engaged in battles with each other and from time to time the forces or pirates of Nagar attacked these areas.

The attacks on Hunza finally ended in “the reign of Mir Ghazanfar’s successor Mir Ghazan Khan I in 1869”. Also remember that during the reign of Mir Shah Ghazanfar, the town was temporarily obeying Hunza. (H3)

During the reign of Mir Shah Ghazanfar Ali Khan, the people of Nagar often attacked the areas of Gojal, especially Shishkat, and Gulmit. Reigned from 1892 to 1938.

Barren Land Resettlement Plans of Mir Muhammad Nazim Khan:

During his tenure, he resettled the uninhabited areas within the limits of Hunza and not only focused on resettlement within the limits of Hunza but also settled his subjects in Rahimabad and Oshkandas in the Gilgit sub-division outside the limits of Hunza. In Hussainabad, Murtaza Abad Pine, Khanabad, Hussainabad, Ataabad, Nazimabad (Shishkat), Khairabad, Sost Bala (also called Nazimabad today), Karman, Sponge, and Ostrich are settlements of his era. ۔ ” (H15)

Mir Muhammad Nazim Khan took out Kohl and settled Shishkat. Nazimabad was named after him. Later this name was changed to Shishkat. We have done its history in our first post as well. To avoid this, the locals used to live in high and sloping places for their protection. Gulmit Ondra Fort is also a link in this chain. In these periods, local rulers and their subjects were forced to take up residence in this high place due to geographical conditions and this is the reality of this historical place.

The village of Shishkat is an example where the people of Gulmit come back and go to Gulmit for fear that the invaders of Nagar will return to us. These families include my ancestors whose hand-planted trees are still in Shishkat today.

It should be remembered here that our forefathers or other people who relocated from Shishkat to Gulmit relocated because they lacked weapons and did not have weapons. They could not defend themselves from the enemy. When the situation improved a few years later, people from Central Hunza, including Gulmit, were relocated during the reigns of Raja Mir Nazim Khan and later Mir Jamal Khan. Including the Tajik tribes of Central Asia.
The Wakhi Tajik tribes, in particular, are inhabited by members of the Hariktor family of my ancestors, as well as other tribes mentioned in this post.

There was a lack of science and technology like in this era. With great difficulty, the Raja of this era had military equipment which was only available to the bodyguards or security guards of the Raja or Mir to protect them in difficult times. Can do
Due to the unavailability of iron in those days, most people usually made tools out of wood. People used to make farming tools with great difficulty.

They also used to go to the mountains or pastures far from the village and bring strong wood for many days which could be used for many years. An excellent example of this is the Kohl extracted from the Balting-E-Bar for the settlement of the village of Shishkat. Our elders have extracted it by working with wooden tools and cattle horns. Are commendable۔

The fall of the budding landslide and the Prayer of Shahdad’s Teacher:


It is narrated that during the reign of Mir Shah Ghazanfar Ali Khan (1824-1864), a landslide at the site of Buding called Sarat (Ataabad) caused the river to stop flowing. And the stagnation of the river for eight months badly affected the settlements around the river. It is a coincidence that during this time, one of the (Ismaili) teachers of Sarikul, Khawaja Shahdad Gojal, came to the people of Ismaili for preaching.

Therefore, the river was being destroyed for so long and now there was no other way to avoid it except by praying and supplicating to Allah Almighty. Therefore, the people here requested the caller to pray to Allah Almighty to destroy it. Pray for deliverance from Kari. Because the water had now penetrated the settlements of Gulmit and Passu. Go to the place where the water had stopped due to the landslide. By the command of God, a crack appeared in the landslide and the water reservoir gradually started leaking out then gradually it took the form of a flood and, Aliabad began to flow and a lot of land was washed away. It is said that before that the population of Passu was high but this flood washed away all the lands and the present population of Passu remained. So far a mound can be seen in the middle of the river” (H4). According to this book, the date of death of Mir Ghazanfar Ali Khan is 1864.


According to another/elder, the elder teacher gave the amulet and a handful of mud to a man who crossed the river at Gulmit but could not reach the part of Ataabad where Sarat, was due to excess water and lake. Things had to be thrown. The man threw them near the suspension bridge of Gulmit. In a few hours, the mountain slide and waves formed in the water of the lake. It started and slowly the water of the lake started flowing out, so the water of the lake completely ran out.

When the lake was built, the locals left their lands and went to higher places, including their livestock and other necessities of life, including places like present-day Kamaris Gulmit and Odfer. Now it is clear that not only the locals but also the Raja or Mir of that time along with his family moved to a high place which we call Ondra today. That is to say, the people did not move because of the fighting that took place during these periods

According to history, this incident took place during the reign of Mir Shah Ghazanfar Ali Khan (1824 to 1864). According to elders, the construction work of Ondra Fort was done by preserving the timber of the houses affected by the lake and now only their remains are left.

At the site of the present commerce, “Dirat Kamaris” where there are still signs, including my ancestor Morwat Shah’s farm, house, and cattle shed, with specially made ponds for storing grain, which my father  Shukoor Ali son of Musa Baig also mentions.

When the lake was completely depleted, the locals returned to their lands to be rebuilt or cultivated. Come. This house is still occupied by my younger uncle Morwat Shah, father of Musa Baig.

According to the statements of my ancestors, when my late grandfather Musa Baig and late Nana Jan Sikhawat Shah’s father Mohtarm Morwat Shah came back to their house, there was nothing but walls. All the people’s houses had some walls collapsed and some were destroyed by the lake and now they have to be rebuilt. When the construction wood could not be arranged for the construction of the house again, my grandfather Jan and Nana Jan’s father Morwat Shah’s mother who belonged to Ghulkin Gojal went to her mother’s house in Ghulkin village to seek help. Not only her parents but also the people of the entire Ghulkin village helped her daughter with the construction of wood for “Nang o Namos” as she and her children are without a roof at the moment. The whole village including her parents came to Gulmit and built a house for Morwat Shah and his family which is still in good condition today (date 25-2-2021). (Picture of the house)

Readers! You can watch the video record of my father Shukoor Ali son of Musa Baig regarding our Narrator and statements on our YouTube channel The IMS. Please visit and subscribe to our channel for such useful information. So you get timely notifications. (Video)

Considering the statements of my grandfather and Nana Jan and the present statements of my esteemed father, it is clear that the people of that time did not do constructive work for themselves again but proper arrangements for accommodation for the Mir or Raja of that time. He had to work on the construction of the Ondra fort for Mir, with the help of water-like construction wood, and even after the end of the lake, he built a palace for Mir, which has already been mentioned according to tradition.

These two references show that this event took place during the reign of Mir Shah Ghazanfar Ali Khan, the second Ismaili ruler of Hunza (1824 to 1864. Remember his father Mir Salim Khan II (reign 1790 to 1824). Who was the first to convert to the Ismaili religion in the area and “for the first time in this area the ritual lamp “Rasm-e-Chiragh Roshan” was lit by the late Mir Salim Khan” (H5).

The significance of Gulmit Ondra Poyga in today’s era:

Gulmit Ondra Poiga is of special importance today because it is now a tourist destination and will be rebuilt while maintaining its importance in modern times. A link in the chain is to build a museum on the site to preserve the relics and historical artifacts that will be built soon. Now, with the help of the locals of Gulmit, they have built a footpath to the historic fort at the top of Gulmit. This track has been officially opened recently. Not only is the historical significance of this place but also one of the advantages of this place is that from this place one can get a complete view of the surrounding places. Including the adjoining village Shishkat to Aaeenabad can be seen. Note that a track of this style is also being constructed in Shishkat Bala which will be mentioned in detail later (Photos)

Another important advantage is that from this place one can estimate the height of the “Leopard Hill Track Shishkat” being built in the nearby village of Shishkat. It seems that these two tracks are inseparable from each other. I have mentioned in one of my posts about “Leopard Hill Track Shishkat” and the special tourist places of Shishkat village.


References and Bibliographies:

1.“The Karakorum Hunza” page no.31

 2a. “Age of Atiq-e- Hunza” Page No. 188

 2b. “Where three Empires meet” pp.99-100.

“Hunza” page no 288

 3a. “Tribes of Hindukush” page no.30.

 3b. “Tribes of Hindukush” PP.30-31.

  1. “History of the Ancient State of Hunza” Page No. 230
  2. “The Old Testament Hunza” Page No. 140-141
  3. “The Karakorum Hunza” page no.31 –
  4. “The Karakorum Hunza” page no.37-38.
  5. “Where three empires meet” page no.98-99.
  6. “Hunza” Page 298

15.”History of the Invitational Ismaili Northern Territories “pages 241-240

The full details of all these references and bibliographies are given in the book “History of Da’wah Ismaili Northern Areas” by Mr. Abdullah Jan Hunzai, so can read this book or contact us directly by email. Thank you


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *